Pranzo Al Mare
A Rite of
Summer Passage
Sun, sea, and food is what gets us Italians ticking. Unite the three for pranzo al mare (lunch by the sea) and you’re in for the full-on, real-deal dolce vita.
Just the whisper of those words, pranzo al mare, conjures visions of sun-drenched days.
It’s the dream that gets us through the depths of January and the reality that marks the start of Estate Italiana.
Like the waves which come and go against its rocky coastline, Liguria is slow and sleepy in winter. That is, until the tide turns, one’s first pranzo al mare of the season is enjoyed, and suddenly we all come alive again. It can happen as early as March, but in all likelihood it’s more like May for most of our guests.
There are no set rules but there are certain rituals. This is Italy after all.
Think of it thus…
Your first pranzo al mare is a joyful surrender to life’s simple pleasures. It's the moment you shed the last vestiges of winter and embrace the languid beauty of an Italian summer by the sea. “Is this the happiness I’ve longed for?” You ask yourself.
For some, a pranzo al mare might involve a simple panino on the beach. For those at our Bagni Miramare beach club, it’s more of a lingering affair. First, a rustic offering: una fetta di focaccia. A strip, tear or slice of salty, olive-oil-kissed bread. That first bite is a Ligurian hello: the satisfying crackle through the golden wrapping giving way to a soft, chewy heart.
In nearby Genoa, focaccia is an institution and everyone has an opinion about how and when it should be enjoyed. Unlike many foods in Italy, it can (and should) be eaten any time of the day. In fact, a common breakfast in Liguria is a salty slice of focaccia dipped in your morning cappuccino.
From the focaccia, comes the parade of antipasti: perhaps an insalata di mare (a briny jewel box of the ocean's riches) or alici marinate (fresh anchovies with glistening silvery skins).
And then the primi arrive, often our beloved trofie al pesto alla Genovese. That twisted pasta a carrier for the bright green sauce made with Ligurian basil and mingled with humble potatoes and green beans.
This really is the Liguria starter pack: focaccia, fish, trofie al pesto.
A REMINDER OF SANTA'S STORY
Before the glamour of its villas and yacht-filled harbor, the fortunes of Santa Margherita Ligure were intrinsically linked to the surrounding seas and the tireless efforts of the town’s fishermen.
These men were the custodians of Santa’s early days. Their calloused hands drawing sustenance and life from the Ligurian depths. Generation after generation of seafaring families etched their existence onto these shores, their knowledge of the currents and the secrets of the underwater world passed down like hallowed heirlooms.
The fruits of their labor - glistening fish of every kind - fed the local tables and fueled a modes trade. And so to Santa’s most famous son, or seafood…
The famed gambero rosso. These magnificent red prawns, boasting hues from delicate rose to deep violet, are a Ligurian calling card. Whether grilled, tossed in a linguine, or eaten raw (with oil and salt… perfetto), they are a true taste of the waters around us.
While the plump, sweet flesh of its abdomen is a delight, to truly understand a local’s devotion to this creature, you must look upwards. The real treasure lies not in the tail, but in the head, a slow slurp or suck unlocking all that extra goodness. A little unconventional perhaps, but undeniably, deliciously, Ligurian.
IT REALLY IS ALL ABOUT THE LUNCH
These are some of the tastes awaiting you, but pranzo al mare isn’t just the food. It's the laughter under the shade of an umbrella, the breeze on your skin, the sand between your toes. It's a moment. A break from the morning’s heat where the only agenda is to enjoy the company, the view, and the flavors of the sea. Once over, you’re ready to return to your lounger, your book, your pennica. Filled and fulfilled.
A do & don’t for your pranzo al mare
Do: listen to mamma. Swimming straight after lunch? No, no, no! The sea, she warns with a knowing look, has a way of claiming those with full bellies. Better to wait and let your food settle.
Don't: think you can outsmart the seagulls. Eating on the beach? Beware the feathered bandits looking to execute an aerial heist on your salad or sandwich. (Not a problem you’ll have at Bagni Miramare beach club, we hasten to add.)
